Winter in Maryland is always tough for me. I don't like the short days, long nights, cold weather, and lack of active wildlife. But having something to look forward to is a big help. On January 15, 2026, that moment came when Cheryl invited me to join a group of kayakers on their week-long adventure to Savannah, Georgia. I quickly accepted her offer without hesitation and then spent the next few months looking forward to it.

As is often the case, I didn't sleep much on the night before this much anticipated trip. But I still managed to get on the road by 0630 and drive about ten hours (including breaks) to my destination. Between satellite radio and my playlists of country and southern rock music, the drive was mostly enjoyable. Eventually, I arrived at our home for the next several days...a huge, luxurious AirBnB house on Talahi Island.

Staying at the house were 15 other kayakers: Gregg & Cheryl, Carolyn, Linda & George, Lisa, Lori, Mary, Jennifer, Patty, Ginzy, Diana, Pamela, Khadijah, and John. For me, it was mostly familiar faces along with a few new ones.

Diana purchased groceries and served as our meal organizer, which was no small task. The group had done this trip before at this house so they had a pretty good idea of what worked and what didn't.

John was my roommate. We each had two bunk beds in the basement. Mine was configured strangely in that the lower bed was half blocked by the ladder used to get into the top one. It reminded me of my two years living on the USS John F. Kennedy (CV-67) aircraft carrier, but the AirBnB bunk was much nicer.

Behind the house was a pond filled with duckweed. I considered paddling in it until I realized that the recent drought meant the water was very low and the shoreline was extremely muddy. It would have been a very messy launch so I changed my mind.

The pond was home to lots of wildlife.

There weren't just interesting things to see. The sounds from the pond were also intriguing. On a warm night, we could hear hundreds of frogs. Turn up your speakers and click here to hear them. I recorded this in the dark so there is nothing to see.

After such a long drive, many of us were up for a walk so I picked and led a route around the perimeter of the neighborhood. The houses appeared to be one level, beautifully landscaped, well-maintained, and at times a bit quirky.

The abundance of Spanish moss really made me feel like we were in the deep south.

While it was still a little cool in Maryland, it felt more like late spring here in Georgia.

Bats flew above us as it got dark.

That night, we had a great pasta dinner back at the house.

I helped make the egg muffin breakfast. Many of the morning and evening meals were a group effort with folks also pitching in for cleanup. Perhaps the biggest issue was limited space in the kitchen so it wasn't good if too many people tried to help.

Lunches were make-your-own from bread, tortillas, meat, and cheese.

On the evenings prior and sometimes the morning of, we discussed our paddling plans. Then Dr. Greg wrote things up on the whiteboard so everyone knew where to go and when to leave.

The morning was sunny and comfortable. During our entire week, we had no rain, which was great for getting outdoors but overall not good since the water was so low.

We saw numerous vultures in the neighborhood. I don't recall seeing anything dead so I'm guessing they were doing their job with carrion cleanup.

During our stay at the house, we carpooled as much as possible. Parking was sometimes limited so anything we could do to take up less space was good. My carpool partner was Patty. We took her truck to the first launch site.

We launched from Priest's Landing. Joining our group were Anton, Nancy, and Jessica, who stayed in a different location.

On the beach, I found raccoon footprints.

In the shallows, thousands of mangrove periwinkle clung to the vegetation.

A distinctive landmark at this site is the white cross.

We briefly saw a dolphin surface. For us Chesapeake Bay folks, that is a big deal.

I ducked under a pier to look for interesting wildlife but found none.

Dr. Greg said a few welcoming words and then we were off, paddling southeast on the Wilmington River.

The most distinctive landmark just southeast of Priest's Landing was a large crane.

Near the crane was Landings Harbor Marina, shown behind Anton in the pic below.

Here's some others in our group.

I spotted a brown pelican perched on a channel marker.

We pulled over at an island just past Romerly Marsh Creek called Dead Man Hammock.

Rather than sand, this place was blanketed by millions of shells.

I saw a few oystercatchers.

As we ate our lunches, some dolphins swam past.

I took a brief nap, putting my dry bag between me and the shells.

Our simple out and back trip was not so simple. Dr. Greg knew the wind would pick up but I think it ended up being stronger than forecast. My guess was we had a headwind of 12-15 mph with 20 mph gusts. We also had an ebb tide that we had to fight. Unlike the tidal fluctuation in Baltimore which is typically 1.3 feet, in Savannah, it is 7-10 feet! This made for very challenging conditions.

It didn't take long before we could see the crane near out launch site. But getting to it was a different story. Some folks were able to make headway while others were going nowhere. A few felt staying near the shore was the best option while others preferred a more direct route. It was just a matter of time before we became very spread out.

I stayed back near the sweep to provide assistance to anyone needing help. When you're far from shore, it is had to tell how much or little progress you're making. But fixed objects (such as the channel marker where I found the pelican) provide a clearer picture. Here, one of the kayakers realized he was getting nowhere fast. At that point, he agreed to let me tow him.

I towed this kayaker back to near where we launched. The water at the pier that I had to duck under earlier was now about eight feet lower! That meant the sandy Priest's Landing beach was now a deep mud pit. Folks were not able to land or get their boats ashore. Plan B was to take out at the marina.

I paddled back downstream, going from one kayak to the next to see if anyone needed help and also to let people know what our plan was. Another person needed assistance so I towed her to the marina.

I went back out a third time to check on people. There were still two kayakers out so I paddled with them. They were making slow but steady progress so they declined a tow. I stayed with them until we were back.

Back at the marina, we all helped folks get out and then get their boats to the parking lot.

It was a private marina not made for kayaks so we were grateful they were willing to assist us in our time of need. We also showed our gratitude monetarily.

Here is my route. I paddled 13.6 miles that day. I was glad to lend assistance where I could. I called this my "Forrest Gump" moment.

We drove back to the house, got washed up, and then went out to eat at the Flying Fish Bar & Grill.

A couple of people wanted to buy me a drink for helping out on the paddle. Unfortunately, I don't drink but maybe I should start.

After yesterday's kayak trip, most folks were ready to let their paddling muscles recover by spending the day on land in Savannah. But after spending a few days there in February during my winter trip down south with Moms, I was preferring to get back out on the water.

I initially considered paddling near the visitor center of the Savannah National Wildlife Refuge but according to Google AI:
The Savannah National Wildlife Refuge experiences semi-diurnal tides with a typical tidal range of 5 to 6 feet during neap tides and over 8 feet during spring tides.

I was wanting to get out on my SUP and I didn't know if those tidal fluctuations would be appropriate so instead, I found a calmer route on Abercorn Creek which is described as
...a premier, non-tidal, blackwater paddling destination. Known as a scenic, swamp-like tributary of the Savannah River, it offers a tranquil experience featuring cypress trees, moss, and local wildlife, largely free from the strong tidal shifts closer to the coast.
It is described as a "little slice of Florida," with calm, slow-moving water suitable for paddling through forests of mangrove-like trees and cypress, according to "LOCAL Life SC."

Joining me was Ginzy and Patty. For today and for the rest of our stay, Patty and I would use my car because the extra-wide roof rack made it easy carry the SUP.

The three of us drove 43 minutes and then launched at the Abercorn Creek Boat Ramp.

This is a great place if you want to get away from civilization. The creek borders the Savannah National Wildlife Refuge (much further upstream than the visitor center) so the only development we saw was an old wooden bridge and what appeared to be a structure for flood control at the confluence of Bear Creek and Little Collis Creek.

While this creek was great for the three of us, it might not have been suitable for a large group because there was no place to pull over. It was just dense woodlands.

We saw or heard six alligators. For the ones we didn't actually see, we knew they were there because we heard something big run into the water.

We saw a yellow-crowned night heron.

I was really hoping to find some snakes but we did not. I did, however, see several wasps busy making their nests.

We saw some interesting flowers

I used my loppers to cut some branches so we could paddle under a fallen tree. I typically carry a pair of loppers and two saws for help get past such obstacles.

Here are some things I observed about the area:

The vegetation didn't have a strong southern feel, though there were quite a few dwarf palmetto plants.

There were no sandy shores that I can recall.

The water was very deep (6+ feet), even close to shore.

After two hours, we stopped for a brief snack and then started heading back. I don't recall any alligators on the return trip. I later read:
Alligators in Georgia are most active between dusk and dawn, with peak hunting and movement occurring during twilight hours, just after sunset and just before sunrise.

We were done at 1450. The batteries in my GPS were dead so I just used my phone until it overheated. Assuming we maintained the pace we did during the first hour, I think we paddled 11-12 miles.

When I looked up our route on Google Maps, I realized that instead of doing and out-and-back trip, like we did, we could have circumnavigated an island by following Little Collis Creek to Big Collis Creek, then entering the Savannah River, and following it back to Abercorn Creek. Should I return here, I will likely make that my goal.

Back at the house, we got washed up and then returned to the Flying Fish for dinner. Last night I had the fried flounder and today I had the chicken sandwich, grilled. Their sweet potato fries are very good. This place is 0.8 mile from the AirBnB house.

I spent much of the evening sorting through and processing photos. This would typically be my modus operandi in the evenings.

For me, the highlight of the week was paddling Ebenezer Creek.
Ebenezer Creek [is] one of the most pristine and historic backwater black-water waterways the south has to offer. Ebenezer is a National Natural Landmark and 1 of 4 Wild and Scenic Rivers in the state.
Ebenezer has no real current and floods out to swamps covered with Tupelo and Cypress trees that have yet to not impress. Paddle through the creek and the virgin swamps and see what early settlers of this great country may have seen.
- from Explore Georgia - Backwater Expeditions

With plenty of parking, a restroom, and an easy beach launch at Tommy Long Landing, this place is hard to beat.

There is also some interesting history here.
Union Major General Jefferson C. Davis (no relation to the Confederate president), who had opposed emancipation, ordered that as his 14th Corps crossed Ebenezer Creek, all slaves were to be held back while the pontoon bridge was removed, leaving the slaves stranded on the creek's north bank.
Realizing they were being left behind, the slaves panicked. Several men built a wooden raft to ferry women, children, and the elderly across the creek while other slaves attempted to swim. Some made it safely across; tragically an uncertain number drowned. A number of Federal soldiers returned to the creek to help survivors onto the creek's south bank. After Confederate cavalry arrived, many remaining on the north bank were captured and returned to slavery.
- from sign near launch site titled "The Incident at Ebenezer Creek"

The scenery here is fabulous. In terms of scenery, it is exactly what I like so I give it a perfect ten!

One thing I really loved about Ebenezer Creek was how it really felt like the South. There was lots of Spanish moss and the biggest cypress trees I'd ever seen. I'm used to their knees only being about two feet high but many of the knees on these trees were taller than me. There were also plenty of dwarf palmetto plants. In contrast to yesterday's paddle, there were many sandy shores where folks could land.

We saw some alligators. The smaller ones seem to be willing to pose for us while the bigger ones were more shy. Here's a little one, maybe four feet long.

This is a different gator swimming in front of Lisa.

I spotted a little blue heron resting in a tree. This one was clearly used to being around people. I stuck around and pointed it out to the paddlers behind me.

We paddled out into the Savannah River where the effects of the tide were pretty strong. But we weren't in it for long...just long enough to get to our lunch spot.

While others pulled ashore at sunny spots, I padded my SUP further downstream to get a look at thousands of holes in the dirt that I presume were left by clams. I recall seeing similar impression fossils in rock on September 5, 2025 in Ohio.

I heard someone say they saw a river otter. I rushed over and found it was a baby. We did not see the parents around.

We paddled back upstream on Ebenezer Creek.

I saw a yellow-crowned night heron. It wasn't too eager to get away from me, but it also wasn't exactly cooperative in posing, so I had to wait a long time for it to get into a sunny location where I could snap this shot. Then I rushed to catch up with the group.

We saw a good number of turtles.

What I did not see during our entire stay were signs of beaver activity.

Folks knew I was wanting to see a snake so I got excited when someone called me over the radio to let me know they found one. By this time, I was in the middle of the pack and I didn't know who called me or where they were. Guessing they might be behind me, I rushed back downstream and found the snake, which might be a northern water snake. It was about four feet long and perched on a cypress tree.

I stuck around until it started slithering towards my SUP. Then I pushed away from the tree.

Folks took out once we got back to the launch site, but I wasn't wanting the day to end. I gave Patty the keys to my car and then continued paddling upstream while she waited for me.

The group paddled this creek last year, and some said the water was higher, creating more of swamp-like conditions that made exploring more interesting. As awesome as it was today, I could hardly imagine it being better. But I imagine this upstream section might have been like what they were talking about. The creek here was not so well-defined and one could simply meander through it like a maze.

I heard an alligator and saw a great egret.

I returned to the launch site, having paddled 9.8 miles.

Tonight was deemed "Taco Tuesday." I had my fill of them for dinner.

Sitting out on the screened porch on the upper deck, we saw a raccoon in a hole in the tree in the backyard. I rushed downstairs with my camera and caught this shot.

That evening, we discussed tomorrow's trip.

For the third day in a row, I was on my SUP. We launched from Steel Bridge Boat Landing and paddled upstream on the Ogeechee River.

The group had never been here before. After Sunday's trip, folks were hesitant to fight the tide so that limited things a bit. This place was pretty far upstream so the effects were much less as compared to further downstream. Still, the current was fairly strong in some areas. Here's Cheryl and Dr. Greg paddling against the current.

The drought made things ripe for wildfires and those fires produced smoky conditions for us today. According to Google AI:
Based on local rain gage stations as of April 22, 2026, there has been no significant measurable rainfall in the immediate Savannah, GA area, with stations recording 0.00 inches over recent check-ins. The region has been experiencing worsening dry weather conditions following a record-dry March 2026.

Paddling up front, the river narrowed as I passed a downed tree that stretched most of the way across. Water rushed under its branches, creating a strainer. About 40 feet upstream from that was another downed tree with an opening for paddlers on the right side. I got past the strainer and then moved left where the water was calm. Then I radioed to Dr. Greg about what lie ahead, stressing that it might not be suitable for everyone. One paddler got past the strainer and then made her way towards me. Her boat turned and she was unable to straighten it out. She got pinned against the strainer, unable to move. I paddled over and tied my tow rope to her bow. Realizing there was a downed tree just up ahead, I tied a knot in my tow rope to shorten it and then tried to pull her free. Not only did I fail to so do, but I also capsized. My SUP was then pushed parallel with her boat. I made my way to the edge of the downed tree where I was able to stand on some branches. Dr. Greg paddled to shore and I pushed my SUP to him before I too made my way to shore. Then I pulled my tow rope with all my might to get the pinned kayaker out of the strainer.

With the three of us near shore, I proceeded to the downed tree to make a hole that we could paddle through. I would have used my lopper but it along with my saws sunk when my SUP flipped. So I just broke off small branches and bent back the larger ones. All three of us were able to get through. Fortunately, most of the group stayed back.

What did I learn from this?

Secure cutting tools: My saws and lopper were just under my deck bag. They weren't tethered to anything. So naturally they sunk once they were exposed to the current after the SUP flipped. But these were mostly just regular gardening tools so one saw and the lopper didn't have a way to be tethered. For the next set, I'll have to be clever and figure out a way to fasten them.

Pull a boat out of a strainer from the shore: While I was strong enough to paddle my SUP out of the strainer, I was not strong enough to free a sea kayak from one. But once I got to shore, I could.

Fortunately, there were no serious injuries and nobody lost anything significant. I think what I learned made this experience all worthwhile because I will be better prepared the next time.

Heading back downstream, we stopped at one of several beaches along the way for a break. I cleaned up some minor scrapes which were starting to attract flies.

Here's another stop.

We saw some swallow-tailed kites flying above us. Their split tails are very distinctive.

While the vegetation wasn't as distinctly "southern" as yesterday, there were definitely parts that reminded me that we weren't in Maryland.

Back at the launch site, some folks figured they were done while the rest of us continued on. While I waited for the latter group, I paddled across the river to a fallen log. There, I saw a four-foot long diamondback watersnake, something that doesn't live in Maryland.

Here's Mary.

And here's Pam.

I got in 6.3 miles that day.

Many of contributed to the group meals by cooking, cleaning, or bringing food. I brought a dozen eggs laid by my chickens along with four pounds of western Maryland, free-range, grass-fed ground beef from my sister-in-law's farm. Several people helped prepare this meal. I am particularly grateful to John who served as the grillmaster that night. I've been told my grilling skills are lacking.

Two birthdays were recognized that evening. We celebrated by singing and partaking in ice cream and cake. Such a fun group!

We drove to Hardeeville, South Carolina and put in at Cooks Landing Boat Ramp which lies next to a cemetery.

On the shore, I spotted a fiddler crab hiding on some rip rap.

We paddled upstream on the New River.

Upon doing a radio check, I realized that mine died.

I saw a great egret fly in front of Jennifer.

The scenery was nice but not particularly memorable. Based on the vegetation, I wouldn't have known we were outside of Maryland.

We pulled ashore for lunch at the New River Boat Landing. I continued briefly past the landing before joining the group. If I return, I expect I will start here and then paddle upstream and explore all the narrow tributaries which I think would be more interesting.

We made our way back downstream.

Under New River Bridge I found what I think is a wasp nest made of mud.

Here's Lori.

We saw a few alligators.

Carolyn in the lead.

For me, the big find of the day were western cattle egrets.

I ended up paddling nine miles.

Patty went with Diana to do some shopping. That left me free to go check out the Oatland Island Wildlife Center which lies a mere four miles from our AirBnB house.

Ginzy told me there is a small wood stork rookery there so I set out to find it. I did indeed see it at Ledbetter Pond. Unfortunately, the birds were very difficult to see behind the tree branches. They also stayed hunkered down, not showing their faces.

I walked the center's two-mile long trail, looking for any interesting wildlife. They have a lot of animals in enclosures but for me, photgraphing them is like shooting fish in a barrel. I prefer the wild wildlife.

Back at the house, I did a short walk in neighborhood with Pam and Lisa. We found an 18-inch long feather.

We launched from Lazaretto Creek Boat Ramp on Tybee Island. We started by kayaking upstream on Lazaretto Creek. Yes, I too was in a kayak. Only the first and the last trips was not via SUP.

I can't say the scenery was particularly interesting. I like trees and there were none. All I saw were bay grasses. But what was lacking in vegetation was made for up with wildlife.

Lisa spotted a tri-colored heron.

We saw a variety of small birds on the shore including a semipalmated plover.

Here's Carolyn.

The big find for the day were white pelicans, which I've only see on the west coast.
American White Pelicans are large migratory birds, with a 9-foot wingspan, that increasingly winter along the Georgia coast and inland lakes. Unlike brown pelicans, they do not dive, but rather swim in groups, using their massive orange bills to scoop up fish.
- from Google AI

Notice that some of these birds display yellow-orange around their eyes while some do not. According to Google AI:
American White Pelicans feature distinct yellow-orange or bright yellow bare skin around their eyes during the breeding season. This vivid facial patch, paired with a bright orange bill, helps identify them. Outside the breeding season, the skin becomes a duller yellow.

Another source says:
Males are generally larger and sometimes have pinkish skin around the eye, while females are smaller and often show yellow-orange eye skin.

Rather than do a direct out-and-back paddle, Greg figured out how we could come back a slightly different route via Oyster Creek.

I saw two oystercatchers.

We stopped for lunch in our boats at a narrow, sheltered, shallow area. Here, I saw what some claimed was a small bonnet head shark. I only saw it for a second but I'm certain it was not a dolphin. Folks also said they saw a three-foot long shark earlier but I did not.

Here's Patty on the move.

I saw some terns.

Back at the launch site, there were perhaps a hundred fiddler crabs crawling through the mud.

Here's our route.

It would have been nice to have paddled in bigger water to the Cockspur Island Lighthouse but I think most of us had enough. I think such an endeavor is one that needs to be done early when we're still fresh, since the current can be strong.

I dropped off Patty at the house and then headed back to the Oatland Island Wildlife Center to try to get pictures of the wood storks. Yesterday's viewing was frustrating and I figured that if I didn't try again, I'd regret it.

I headed straight towards the pond and stayed there for over a half hour, taking hundreds of photos. Most were of a wood stork about an eighth of a mile away. Despite my efforts, I was not able to get any good shots of it. But for the ones closer to me in the nests, there were a few moments where they lifted their head and I was ready with my camera to squeeze off a shot. Jackpot!

I find wood storks very interesting-looking creatures in an ugly sort of way. I felt very fortunate to see them today.

In this same area, I saw a green heron and wood ducks.

Walking back on the trail, I saw four green anoles, which I've only see before in Florida. Some of them displayed their dewlap to me.
A green anole puffs up its throat, extending a brightly colored flap of skin known as a dewlap, primarily to communicate. This behavior is used by males to establish territorial dominance over rivals, attract potential mates through courtship displays, or signal distress/defend against perceived threats.
- from Google AI

Here's some other pics.

The wildlife center has yellow road signs that say "Gopher Tortoise Crossing." On the way out, I saw it.

For my final dinner, I joined Carolyn, Mary, and Patty at the Flying Fish Bar and Grill. This was my third dinner there. I had their blackened chicken sandwich. The place was packed to the gills.

A really good band was playing country and southern rock music. Our waiter told us they are high school kids. I should have gotten their name because I suspect some day, they might be famous. For a moment, I felt optimistic about the younger generation.

Most people packed up and left before me. I stuck around a little longer so I could upload my photos to the cloud. Then I headed out for the 10.5-hour drive home. Having good music made the trip tolerable.

In Carolina (I can't remember if it was North or South), I pulled over at a rest stop for a 20 minute power nap at a picnic table before continuing on. I had plenty of food consisting of sandwiches I made at the house and eggs that Carolyn boiled for me.

I received a very warm greeting at home from Norma, Daphne, Chester and Sophie, the latter of whom we are dogsitting. Norma made a fine salmon dinner that night. It was every bit as good as anything I'd eaten at the Flying Fish.

I considered stopping on the way back to paddle at Three Sisters Swamp on the Black River, which Linda recommended. But it would have been a little too far out of the way so I'll add that to my bucket list for another time.

Overall, it was great trip and I'm really glad I did it. Really good people. In some ways, it was a mix of a 1990s MTV reality show and adult summer camp. I hope to do similar trips with this or similar groups again.